Imitation Sliding Sash Window

My next job is to make a imitation sliding sash window with curved top, this has to look the same as the existing window in the house.  Instead of both sashes sliding up and down the top sash will be fixed and the bottom sash opening inwards.

Fist job is to glue and cramp 3 pieces of 4" x 2" timber together to make the right size timber for the head and the top rail of the sash.

After the glue has dried its time to mark out for the curve, then cut with a jigsaw.

The marked out timber ready for cutting.

 After the timber is cut I am left with a curve rail 3" x 2". I only need 1 timber this size for the top rail of the sash but for the head I need to glue 3 timbers together to make a head 6" x 2".

Next job is to make the sashes, 

 The two sashes are made and now its time to make the frame.

 The frame is made and now time to cut the head to fit.

The finished frame ready for a coat of primer. Time to fit the beads now.

I have put slots into the top parting bead to enable me to bend it to suit the frame.

I did the same to the outer staff bead then filled it. Now its ready for a coat of primer and fitting.

Making a 16 pane window

My next job is to make a 16 pane window to replace an existing one that is full of rot.  The existing window has two opening sashes but the replacement sash will not be an opening one so it will just be one sash.

First I will make the frame, this is just a standard frame section with a rebate to take the sash.

frame all done now time to glue it up.

Now its time to make the sash, There is a lot of work involved in machining all the glazing bars there are 15 in total, I have put it together dry to check the glazing bars fit ok, now its time to cut all the smaller bars in.

All the bars are now cut and fit together fine, Now its time to glue it all together then sand it up and fit it in the frame ready for a coat of primer.

The window is now all glued together and sanded up, just the primer to do now then it can be fitted.

Making French Doors

I have finally started to make the french doors for Higher Anderton House.

The french doors at this house are in a mess, they are all rotten and in need of replacing.  I have been asked if I could make and fit new frames and doors. The doors will be made from pine and painted white with four panes of glass and glazing bars as in the picture above. As it is a Grade II listed building the doors need to be an exact match to the existing doors.

This is the timber I will be using, now its time to measure and mark out for all the mortice and tenons.

Marking out ready for machining.

Now it is time to cut the tenons and drill out the mortises. A mortise and tenon joint consists, in simple terms, of a 'tongue', (the tenon) that slots into a hole (the mortise) cut in the mating piece of timber. The strength of the joint makes it ideal for use in framing and general furniture work. For a really strong joint the tenon must be a tight fit into the mortise, so care must be taken when cutting both parts of the joint. For maximum strength, the tenon width should never be more than one third the width of the timber in which it is cut.

There are several kinds of mortise and tenon joints. They all serve much the same purpose; but some are stronger, while others conceal the joint construction.

The basic mortise and tenon comprises of a tongue(tenon) cut into one rail and a mortise cut all the way through the other rail. The joint can be strengthened by fitting dowels.

Cutting the tenons.

Next step is to put a 15mm x 7mm rebate in to allow for the glass and putty.

Now its time to mark out for the mortise and the haunch.

This is similar to the basic through tenon, but has a shoulder (haunch) cut on the top of the tenon - and a matching recess cut in the upper end of the mortise. The haunch piece should protrude no more than one quarter along the tenon and should be cut down the same measurement to form a square haunch.

The haunch markings are on the left hand side, usually a third of the tenon is cut to forn the haunch.

Mortise now drilled out, and to cut the tenons to form a haunch.

Now time to check that the doors go together ok and the measurements are all correct.

Everything fits ok and now its time to put them together. I use resin glue as this is very strong for use with building joinery.

I have two pairs of doors to make and one panel to look like two doors.

The Panel

two pairs of french doors glued, sanded and ready for hanging.

Now time to make the frames. The frames are made from 100mm x 50mm timbers and joined together using a mortise and tenon again, with a 45mm rebate to allow for the doors. The shoulders of the frame need to be staggered to allow for the rebate.

Now time to rebate the doors together to form the pair.

Time to chop the hinges in.

Now I have hung the doors time to check they fit nicely in the frame.

The doors and frames are now ready for fitting.

I am fitting the middle panel and frame first while I wait for the glass to be cut, the middle panel has been blocked up and the room inside has been divided into two so I dont need to glaze it yet as it is secure and weatherproof.

 As you can see from the picture below, the doors and frames are beyond repair.

The middle panel fitted, just need to finish of the architrave either side after I have filled the voids with some expanding foam.
You can notice the difference straight away between the old and new doors.

Very pleased with how the panel looks, it all lines up perfect with the original doors.

New Job

I have just priced up some work on a grade II listed building here in Millbrook, 3 sets of french doors and 2 windows.

Repairing A Bouncy Floor.

I had a phone call to look at a hallway floor that was bouncing and causing a problem in the lounge. Once I had the floorboards up I could see that the joist was rotten and the brickwork had deteriated. 

To resolve the problem I had to remove the deteriated brickwork and lay 2 new engineering bricks on a bed of mortar, put in place a new 7 x 2 joist and make good to the surrounding brickwork then refit the existing floorboards. Now there is no bounce and the customer can stop having to pick up fallen ornaments from the lounge floor.

New wall panelling in hallway and landing and using 9mm pine tongue and groove boards and new 150mm pine skirting.